A radiant electric cooktop heats glass-covered elements underneath the surface. When one of them stays dark while the others work, the problem is local to that element or its switch rather than the whole supply.
First, compare the elements
- One element dead, others fine. Points at that element, its switch or its connection.
- Several dead. Points at the control or a breaker problem. Check the two-pole breaker first.
- Element glows but heats slowly. May be a weak element, or cookware that does not sit flat.
Quick checks
- Turn the element to high and wait a minute or two; radiant elements take a moment to glow.
- Check the pan: a warped or rough bottom heats poorly on glass.
- Look for a control lock or a surface lock on the panel.
- Check the breaker and, if the cooktop is part of a range, the oven too.
What not to do
Do not lift the glass or reach under it. Do not use foil or cookware that hangs over the edge. A glass top with cracks should not be used at all, since spills can reach live parts.
What the sign cannot say
A dark element can come from the element, the infinite switch, a limiter or a loose connection. They sit close together and show the same behavior from above. A hot-surface light that stays on after you turn the knob is related but tells you about heat, not about a failure, so keep pans away until it goes out.
Describe which element, which size and how it behaved when you book, because it shortens the search.
See the cooktop repair page, check the service area and choose a three-hour window. We give a written price in advance and offer a 30-day workmanship warranty.